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Bamboo Fber Coming into the world

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Several U.S. manufacturers, textile producers and distributors have developed innovative fabrics that not only allow you to be stylish and comfortable but a hero of the environment. Organic cotton, soy, bamboo and other natural materials grown free of pesticides and fertilizers are being used in the production of clothing as more people seek to be kinder to Mother Earth.

Maybe you recycle, drive a compact car and buy organic foods because you strive to be a friend of the environment.

"People want to do their part for the environment," said Morris Saintsing, operations manager and a partner with The M Group, an Andrews textile manufacturer of bamboo clothing. "American-made is important to people and making better choices for the environment."

The M Group has created a clothing line called Bamboosa, which includes everything from T-shirts and socks to baby blankets and beanies, all cut, sewn and packaged in the small Andrews plant.

The garments are knitted from imported yarn made of bamboo fiber grown on family-owned farms in China. The group's products are sold in shops across the country, but mainly in California, Oregon, Washington, Michigan and Massachusetts, in Canada and online.

"I think people are realizing how the environment is being affected," said Mindy Johnson, creative development and a partner with The M Group. "There's a lot more education about where products are coming from. They hear about sweat shops. People are cluing into it, finally, but slowly."

Manufacturing synthetic fibers creates pollution, the final product is hard to recycle, and the dyeing and printing process consumes vast amounts of water and chemicals, harming the earth, according to the United Nations Environmental Programme.

With initiatives such as the international Clean Clothes campaign, manufacturers and the public are becoming more interested in developing sustainable products. Notable examples include Agnes B, Katherine Hamnett, Timberland, Nike and Levi's.

When people hear about clothing made of bamboo or some other natural material, they typically are suspect of its feel and texture, said Saintsing, who admitted he wasn't sold on it until he finally felt the finished product.

"I was imagining burlap," he said. "You definitely need to touch it. It feels like a very soft cotton."

Bamboo fiber is softer than the softest cotton, has a natural sheen and feels similar to silk or cashmere, according to manufacturers. It's naturally antimicrobial, which makes it attractive to active people because of its natural ability to be highly breathable, fast-drying and odor free, Saintsing said.

"I'm now hooked on bamboo," said Saintsing, who says he wears a bamboo shirt nearly daily. "I'm wearing one now under this shirt."

Saintsing and Johnson, both with experience in the textile industry, wanted to start a manufacturing business that was both eco-friendly and offered a sustainable product. Intrigued by bamboo, one of nature's most sustainable resources, the couple discovered it could import the yarn from China and then have it knitted into fabrics for making garments in the Carolinas.

Bamboosa's short-sleeved shirts sell for $24 and long-sleeved shirts are $26.

Although bamboo can be grown in South Carolina and other places in the Southeast, it is the species in China and the method by which the farmers obtain and process the fiber that makes it more conducive to garment making.

Bamboo isn't the only eco-friendly textile coming to the forefront. Clothing made with soybean fiber is another textile gaining favor among those looking for environmentally friendly garb. China also leads the way in importing yarn made of soy fiber.

"The Chinese have done a lot with soy," said John Campen, new use manager for the United Soybean Board. "It's not something that we are doing. Economically, a major market just isn't there, and it costs more to produce. So we've not pursued it."

Soy clothing has been around for decades. Henry Ford was photographed wearing the first suit made of soy. But because of its accessibility and the cost of producing the fiber, soy clothing never really caught on, Campen said.

China was able to develop a process to spin the fiber into a usable yarn for higher-end fabrics.

"It has good functionality and brings some good qualities," Campen said. "Things change over time. It may be something that could be pursued in the future. Right now, there's not enough volume in the U.S. for a company to just take it on as product line."

There are few outlets for soy clothing. The Colorado Trading and Clothing Co. offers Soybu, a soy and bamboo clothing line that features lightweight fabrics, ideal as activewear. Long-sleeve V-neck or crew necks cost about $35. Pangaya, Sahalie and Gaiam are other companies where soy and soy-blended clothing are sold.

"Sales for us were phenomenal over the holidays," said Carrie Allen, director of catalog merchandising at Gaiam. "Double our projections, which just shows people are willing to accept it. They just need the opportunity to learn about it."

A hurdle for the organics' lines has been the higher retail prices. But Allen predicts that as the demand for organic fabrics grows, the costs of producing and distributing them will fall. And with big leaders such as Nike, Patagonia and Wal-Mart continuing to market organic products, awareness will grow and demand for such products will escalate, she said.

"They've made enormous strides in turning part of their production into organics," Allen said. "They can really change the market place. They're helping in getting the message out."

Eco-friendly fashions are a wave of the future, Allen said.

"Given the option, [consumers] will always makes that choice," she said. "Environmental issues have really become front and center. People will make a change wherever they can. They want it and they're asking for more."

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